The most-lasting impression I have of LA this year is of homelessness and tent cities. I thought New York was bad but what I experienced in LA this week is incomprehensible.

• And it’s gotten much worse in the course of just one year.
• Mayor Eric Garcetti’s new solution sounds idiotic to me: pairing up homeowners (who have sufficient backyard space) with homeless people. Who wants to have homeless encampments in their backyards? The whole thing is supervised by the county’s homeless services authority. Even if you are inclined to do this (out of kindness or for the $30K they’re offering), wouldn’t you have to ask your neighbors if they’re OK with it? Mark my words, this is going to cause all kinds of strife!
• Besides homelessness, I also found the traffic jams more unbearable than ever this year. I had to abort several Uber trips because we were not going to get to my destination in a reasonable period of time.
• And then there are those pesky scooters – all over the streets and the sidewalks – and now, literally, catching on fire!

Not an uplifting few days in the City of Angels.

• However, moments of inspiration were to be found thanks to the brilliant Rick Caruso and the art superstar, Ai Weiwei.  And big shout out to the most tapped-in woman in LA,  Kara K. who sherpa-ed me around town and provided invaluable insights into LA’s coolest art, food and retail scenes.

 

Read on below for more on my LA adventures, ranging from the 5-star to the meh!

 

5-STAR EXPERIENCES: Absolute Must-Sees

 

PALISADES VILLAGE

This is Rick Caruso’s newest mall development. I LOVE it. And proves, once again, Caruso is a genius when it comes to creating knock-your-socks-off retail experiences!

 

• Palisades Village feels as though it has been in the neighborhood forever (although the neighbors are apparently not happy!).
• More food and restaurant oriented than apparel (smart move). We had lunch at Draycott which was good but not great. There’s also a Blue Ribbon Sushi restaurant on site.
• My favorite store is Vintage Grocers – the selection and merchandising is phenomenal.

 

JEFFREY DEITCH GALLERY (925 N Orange Dr)

Opened in October.  Not sure what this neighborhood is called – it’s a mix of industrial but upscale. The kick-off show is by Ai Weiwei – so good!

 

 

MARCIANO ARTS FOUNDATION

Opened last year with an outstanding Jim Shaw show. I had to revisit this year for their major Ai Weiwei exhibition. Entry is free BUT you must book online and tickets are time-sensitive.

 

• Also worth checking out the Yayoi Kusama installation and there are some great Ugo Rondinone pieces, in the courtyard and in the galleries. And if this is your first visit, make sure you check out the Masonic relics room.

 

 

3 STAR EXPERIENCES: Put On Your Itinerary If You Have Extra Time

 

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY: RENOVATION & EXPANSION

 

• This billion dollar plus renovation and expansion is outstanding.
• Spearheaded by LA designer, Kelly Wearstler in collaboration with Gensler.
• The greenery, the tilework, the outdoor seating and gathering spaces are beautiful.
• Additionally, the outdoor art installations provided by LACMA and the Art Production Fund provide a unique element that is not generally found at the mall.
• It doesn’t get a 5-star rating because at least a third of the mall has been left incomplete. Did they run out of money? Did those retailers refuse to cough up the extra cash to get plants/ seating etc? Very strange and disappointing.

 

BAND OF VICES GALLERY (5376 W. Adams Blvd)

 

• Band of Vices is a new gallery run by Terrell Tilford and Melvin Marshall in the West Adams Arts District. My friend Melva Benoit is a partner in the business. They have a very interesting curatorial program this year featuring all women artists. Definitely a gallery to watch.
• Unfortunately, I did not have time to explore West Adams in-depth. It’s the neighborhood all of my sources recommended as the most up-and-coming area. I had at least 10 galleries and restaurants on my itinerary. I put the blame squarely on bad traffic jams.

 

 

 

BAVEL DTLA (500 Mateo Street)

Ori Menashe’s Middle Eastern follow-up to Bestia.

 

• The more I heard about Bavel, the more I wanted to check it out.
• We decided to drop by early on Sunday night (they open at 5pm and we were there by 5:45pm).
• Sadly, a 45 minute wait to be seated at the bar with table seating an even longer wait.
• Maddening. We moved on. But I would recommend a reservation or get here well before the 5pm opening time.

 

NOMAD HOTEL DTLA  (649 South Olive)

 

• I am NOT a fan of the NoMad Hotels (in NYC or in LA). I find them too dark and somber.
• Interestingly, NoMad is owned by the Sydell Group which also owns the Freehand Hotels (which I absolutely adore). Go figure!
• Downtown LA is increasingly filled with cool boutique hotels – the Standard was first, followed by the Ace, the newly renovated Figueroa, the Freehand, the NoMad. The Hoxton is opening next year.
• And in the meanwhile, downtown is an absolute sh*t show because of the homeless situation. You could not get me to stay at a downtown hotel for all the tea in China.

 

CAFE GRATITUDE – Beverly Hills

 

• Everyone raves about Gratitude and I finally made it here and liked it a lot.
• I sat at the bar and the waitperson was able to steer me through the menu. Nice vibe.
• I ordered a salad, it was good but certainly not the very best salad I have ever had.
• If I was in the neighborhood, I would eat here again, but I don’t consider it a destination restaurant worth a special trip.

 

NIKE BY MELROSE (8552 Melrose Avenue)

 

• Love the exterior design and artwork. Operates as a service hub for NikePlus members.
• It’s similar to the Nordstrom Local store (also in the neighborhood).
• You can order, pick up, try on, use vending machines etc. etc. etc.

 

2 STARS OR LESS: Had High Hopes But….

 

THE ROW DTLA/ SMORGASBURG

 

• This was on the verge of opening last year and I just missed it.
• This year I planned my itinerary to be here on a Sunday when Smorgasburg is up and running and I could see ROW DTLA in action.
• As it turns out, not much is happening here. The buildings, and the set-up, remind me of Brooklyn’s Industry City but for whatever reason, spaces are not filling up, and in less than a year, several of the businesses have already gone under.
• Soon, however, Tartine Bakery and its Manufactory will be opening. If that doesn’t spur more activity, I’m not sure what will.

Current ROW DTLA standouts include:

• Flask & Field: excellent and one of the few busy stores (pic below – upper right)
• Hawkins New York: beautiful store carrying useful home items – also busy but more perusing than buying (pic below –  upper left)
• Paramount Coffee Project – cool coffee shop/restaurant (bottom two photos)
• Smorgasburg – lots of people turned out for food trucks featuring interesting variations of tacos and ice cream. But no place to sit, dusty, dirt floor, is just not as appealing as the original Brooklyn version.

 

 

THE WOLVES (519 S. Spring Street, DTLA)

 

• This “speakeasy” just opened and I had such high hopes. They make their own vermouths, amari, bitters etc. But everything is just a little off – from design to menu to vibe.
• Perhaps it will get better. The staff couldn’t be nicer but as it stands, too hit and miss for my tastes.

 

CORPORATION FOOD HALL (724 S. Spring Street, DTLA)

Another disappointment. We got lunch at the Buddha Belly. It was OK.  Clearly, when it comes to food halls, nothing beats DTLA’s Grand Central Market.

 

 

NORDSTROM LOCAL (8401 Melrose Place)

 

• It must be working – they’re opening more of these service-only places. You can get deliveries, tailoring, rent a tuxedo, get a pedicure, and even enjoy a glass of wine while you’re waiting.
• But I don’t really get it. And the services aren’t strictly limited to items you’re buying at Nordstrom e.g. you can get anything tailored here for a few extra dollars.
• What I did like was exploring the many small stores on Melrose Place. Glossier is here as is Isabel Marant and lots of very fancy, high end stores like Balmain.

 

HAMMER MUSEUM

The vibe, the art, the renovation – all meh!! I mean look at this installation below.

 

 

Bottom Line.

This was the first time – EVER – that I came away from LA disappointed. The homeless situation is casting a pall over this once great city.

With the exception of a few standouts, the city feels tired and down-at-the-heels. I’m putting LA on hiatus.