Good Morning & Hello Friday!

• I’m back in NYC but still daydreaming about Bozeman (also this is the first time I’ve covered the same city two weeks in a row but hey, when you’re as cool as Bozeman, that happens!).
• A few facts: Bozeman is tiny with only 56,250 residents (up from 37,300 in 2010). The population skews young (median age is 28) but seems even younger because of all the MSU students in town. Only 10% of the population is over 65. From what I saw, no matter the age, all the locals are outstandingly fit and outdoorsy!
• Bozeman is in the midst of an entrepreneurial boom. Everyone I chatted with was enthusiastic about the opportunities, from my Afghan immigrant Uber driver to the building contractor I met at Plonk (the hip wine bar in town) to designers and creatives – some making techy outdoor gear (Evergoods), some creating gorgeous one-of-a-kind cowboy hats!
• John Mayer calls the area home. I had no idea until the gazillionth person asked me if I was in town for John Mayer’s concert. I did a little research and discovered that he’s been a resident of Paradise Valley (near Livingston, a 30 min drive from Bozeman) for over a decade. When the recent floods devastated his community, Mayer helped out with a fundraising concert.

And with that, please scroll down for some of my favorite spots in one of America’s coolest towns.

WHERE TO STAY

1. The Lark Hotel on Main Street

1. LOVED my stay at The Lark. It’s a 60s-era former motel, with a great vibe, right in the middle of downtown. It was restored (and is owned by) THINKTANK Design Group (local Bozeman architects).
2. The rooms are modern with a minimal aesthetic (which not all guests appreciate but I certainly do).
3. It’s a bit pricey (almost $500 per night) but I’m sure the prices fluctuate based on what’s going on. My visit coincided with MSU move-in weekend.

2. RSVP Motel on N. 7th Avenue (an area renamed Midtown in 2015)

“We’re tapping into a bigger movement in the industry around updating old roadside motels and motor inns. Today’s guests – especially millennials – are less interested in big box hotels. They want authenticity, like original architecture that’s been updated with creative, modern, personal touches. That’s the experience we’re aiming to create with RSVP.”

Hillary Folkvord, RSVP Motel

1. The RSVP Motel, formerly the Rainbow Motel, is very cute and big on whimsy. I didn’t stay there because it’s a bit too far out of town for me. I also hadn’t rented a car so Midtown felt a little isolated. However, it’s only a 15-minute walk from downtown and I ended up visiting their cafe, The Farmer’s Daughters, twice – for breakfast and for lunch.
2. RSVP and its 37 rooms were beautifully renovated by Dean Folkvord (founder of Wheat Montana). Adjoining the property, and built in collaboration with Missoula entrepreneur Nick Checota, is The Elm, a 1500-seat concert venue. Wilco is playing there in September and it’s SOLD OUT – as I’m sure the RSVP will be as well!
3. Dean Folkvord’s daughters, Hillary and Haylee Folkvord have been closely involved with RSVP Motel’s concept, architecture, and interior design and were inspired by classic mid-century hotels in Palm Springs and Austin. They engaged a team of Bozeman firms: Love|Schack Architecture, Abby Hetherington Interiors (see #7 below), BBG Construction, and C&H Engineering for the build-out.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: RSVP is very “pink.” The Folkvord sisters are REALLY leaning into the millennial pink trend. Also, if boutique hotels aren’t your thing there are a number of chain properties just off Main including Kimpton, AC, Element etc.

WHERE TO EAT

3. Blackbird on Main Street – Fabulous!! Best restaurant in Bozeman.

1. Blackbird was, without a doubt, my favorite restaurant. I understand why it was jampacked every time I walked by.
2. However, being a solo traveler, I was able to snag a counter seat – and see Chef Kenan Anderson expediting the orders. I could kick myself for not getting a photo of/with him! We chatted but I had no idea he was the chef until I was almost ready to leave.
3. My delicious dinner started with the goat liver pate, followed by amazing pizza (the Mostarda with prosciutto, grana padano, mozzarella, and arugula), and to cap it off, the chocolate budino.

4. Jam! on Main for breakfast – but Get there early!

1. Jam! knocked my socks off starting with the decor (the mural by Lorin Pope is amazing and I love those seating pods). And that was before I even tasted the huckleberry jam – WOW!!
2. Jam is owned by Aaron Parker (who also owns two other restaurants in town: Dave’s Sushi and Revelry). Parker is originally from Bismark, North Dakota, but got to Bozeman by way of MSU.
3. The interior was designed by Bozeman’s Faure Halvorsen Architects.

5. Plonk – where I should have had my birthday dinner!

• Plonk was my first stop when I arrived. Such a cool vibe.
• My original plan was to have my birthday dinner there, including a splurge on a bottle of Barolo ($280!!).
• Shoulda, coulda, woulda!! Instead, I went to Feast which was fine but not amazing!!

WHAT TO DO

6. Bozeman Farmers’ Market in Lindley Park (downtown)

1. The Bozeman Farmers’ Market is a total happening. EVERYONE in the community turns out for it. It’s huge, it’s festive, there’s live music, people bring their dogs, and their kids.
2. The most popular stands at the market include Spore Attic Mushrooms (which all the best restaurants in town feature on their menus), Chance Farm, Weeks Berries, and Way Good Beef.
3. Other standout vendors included: Juju Gear, an upcycling fashion brand run by a mother/son duo. I bought 2 skirts which were a big hit around town.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: The Farmers Market only operates in the Summer (mid-June to mid-September) and only on Tuesdays (from 5-8 pm).

7. The Architect’s Wife: breathtakingly beautiful home decor store

1. The Architect’s Wife is an absolute gem. It’s located in the historic MT Motor Supply building in Bozeman (just off Main Street).
2. Abby Hetherington opened the store in 2015 as an adjunct to her interior design firm (which is housed in the back of the store). Her aesthetic has been described as “modern meets Montana.”
3. The store specializes in furniture, lighting, linens, decorative accessories, and gifts.

8. Murdoch’s Ranch & Home Supply: their fashion dept would be a huge hit in NYC!!

1. Murdoch’s has the biggest (and most impressive) array of cool workwear brands I’ve ever seen. They have a wall of jeans that spans nearly a mile.
2. I was introduced to Murdoch’s by the cool young people working at my hotel. It’s where the locals shop and I can see why. The prices of all the Carhartt items seem to be about half of what we pay in NYC.
3. Among their top brands: Carhartt, Ariat, Wrangler, YETI, Berne, Justin, Helly Hansen, Dovetail, Occunomix.
4. And big shout out to Betsy who I met on my way in for being so welcoming and helpful!!

9. Historic buildings by fred f. willson (Bozeman’s most prominent architect of the 1920s)

1. Most of Fred F. Willson’s buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
2. In downtown Bozeman, his landmarked buildings are worth a visit including the Baxter Hotel, the Emerson Center, the Hamill Apartments, the Fechter Building, and the Gallatin County Jail (1911), which now houses the Gallatin Historical Society and Pioneer Museum on Main Street.
3. Note: The Baxter is no longer a hotel. It’s now a condo building with an event space and it also houses two ground-floor restaurants. Willson also designed the National Guard Armory which Kimpton Hotels saved from the wrecking ball. However, after their renovation, there is virtually nothing left of the original armory.
4. The Gallatin History Museum (see below) is a must-see. If you can get a docent to give you a partial tour that is even more excellent!

10. Northeast Bozeman: the funky, creative, cool part of town!

1. I stumbled onto this neighborhood while trying to find Live From The Divide. I think I actually gasped at how fabulous it was.
2. It’s got some rough industrial edges (still), but it looks like most of the mills have been converted to art studios and other creative businesses.
3. My favorite discoveries included TINWORKS ART (a former factory building that had been slated for teardown for condos). I caught an amazing show there on its last day curated by Coryander Friend of Placed Projects. Hopefully, this will be an ongoing art space. Echo Arts (a contemporary gallery with exceptional art programming) is also worth a visit. Other great spots include: Live from the Divide, Wild Crumb, Treeline Coffee, The Ugly Onion, and if you’re lucky, you might run into Miranda Seim of Ruminant Hat Co. on the sidewalk outside of Treeline Coffee and snag one of her gorgeous hats.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: The creative businesses in the area are not entirely reliable when it comes to sticking with advertised opening hours, etc. But there’s enough going on in the area that even if one place is closed, you’ll easily find an alternative.

And that’s a wrap for today.

This weekend will be a fun time reconnecting with friends who I haven’t seen in a few weeks. I’m especially looking forward to catching some bluegrass out at Sunny’s Bar in Red Hook. And next week, I am super excited to check out the first day of the US Open Tennis. And then before you know it, it’s time for me to jet off to Austin for the opening of Bruce Munro’s Field of Light installation at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. And that’s it for this week, my friends. I for one am so looking forward to bidding the Summer (and this crazy heat) goodbye. Hello Autumn!!