I just came off a 10-day stay in Stockholm, undoubtedly more time than most people allocate to the city when visiting Scandinavia.

But whether you’re visiting the city for a few days or a few weeks, my list of 5 favorite things to do while in Stockholm may be helpful in planning your itinerary.

And some of these recommendations are obviously more contingent on weather than others.

 

Read on below.

 

#1:   Rosendals Garden and Café

 

 

• I took a 30-minute walk through the woods after visiting the Vasa Museum and landed here. Absolutely loved the café and the rambling gardens and greenhouses. It seems to be as popular (if not more so) with locals than with tourists. There’s also a store where you can buy fresh bread from their bakery as well as home goods and plants, seeds etc.
• Rosendals’ Garden Foundation has been into biodynamic farming for over 30 years.

 

#2:  Södermalm

 

 

I came here repeatedly during my stay (on at least 3 separate occasions). Reminded me of Nolita or the Lower East Side or Brooklyn (but nicer!). Loved wandering around the first time with my friends, Larry and Ann, who live here and then separately to explore on my own. Here’s some of what made it so appealing to me.

• Old wooden houses from the 1700 and 1800’s (pics below).

 

 

• Soder’s Secret Gardens. (pic above lower right) Not 100% sure which of the gardens I saw but I believe it was the Eriksdalslunden which is one of the city’s largest garden allotment communities. The backstory of the gardens is fascinating as well: The concept was founded by a Stockholm nurse, Anna Lindhagen in the early 1900’s as a way to help Stockholm’s poor grow their own vegetables and spend time healthily outdoors. Most of today’s gardeners seem to be growing wild roses and other flowers vs. vegetables.
  
• Nytorget Square. Very cool park with restaurants surrounding it. Greta Garbo was born in this area. Now it’s home to younger hipster families.

 

• Woodstockholm. This is one restaurant I am kicking myself for not getting to – I popped in one night and it smelled so delicious and the staff and the ambiance were great. I’ve heard nothing but good things about it. Instead I went to Tjoget (gorgeous space, inconsistent food).

 

 

#3:  Gamla Stan – the Old Town

 

 

•  The old city is filled with cobblestone streets and beautiful, narrow alleys.
• While I didn’t eat here, I did notice at lunchtime, certain restaurants were patronized primarily by local business people vs. others that were more touristy. The choice is obvious.
• Also, if you make it to the palace with it’s uniformed guards, don’t be shy about asking for a selfie with them – they will gladly comply. Sorry I didn’t do it.

 

#4:  Ostermalm Area

 

 

• Reminded me of a hybrid of NYC’s Upper East Side and Gramercy Park. Upscale but lively. Good to wander around, check out what’s new in retail at the higher end.
• Lots of restaurant options. I went where many local business people were getting their lunch:  Ostermalm Saluhall (Food Hall)
• I especially loved the herring plate at Tysta Mari (although it gets a fairly low ratings)
• Note: the original hall is under renovation so this is a temporary location but still worth checking out.

 

#5:  Snösätra Graffiti Wall of Fame

Snösätra industriområde used to be a run-down industrial area in southern Stockholm. In 2014 the landowners gave permission for the walls to be painted over by graffiti artists. Snösätra Graffiti Wall of Fame thus became one of Europe’s largest graffiti exhibitions.

To get there, it takes about 30 mins by subway plus a 15 minute walk. All new murals are painted every year to coincide with the Spring Beast DJ Festival held in May. For anyone even remotely interested in street art, this is definitely worth a trip to the suburbs.

 

 

FOUR TOURISTY THINGS You Must Do/See At Least Once

 

Hallwyll Museum:

 

• This has to be one of the most fascinating museums I’ve seen in a long while. Countess Wilhelmina von Hallwyl left us with amazing insights and examples of the life of the upper crust at the turn of the century.
• I didn’t take a tour but one of the guides asked if I had any questions. Since I had a ton, he offered to show me around. Grateful for my personal tour.
• If you do go, make sure you check out their private quarters, especially the bathroom – and ask about how water got into the tub since there are no faucets.

 

Drottningholm Palace:

 

 

• This entails a 45 minute ferry ride, each way, so a major time commitment but absolutely worthwhile if your schedule allows.
• If you do include this on your itinerary, highly recommend you take an English-speaking tour.
• Additionally, the palace theater is worth checking out (and I believe only available through a tour).
• And then, of course, there are the gardens.
• This is also the official residency of the royal family.

 

City Hall:

 

 

• The site of the Nobel Prize dinners but also where Stockholm’s municipal council meets in Rådssalen, the Council Chamber.
• Again, highly recommend taking the English-guided tour.
• You can also climb up the tower and see the city from there – I didn’t do this, there’s a long line and you must book for specific time slots.

 

Stockholm Public Library:

 

 

• Gunnar Asplund designed this library and its enormous rotunda containing over 2 million volumes.
• It was built in 1928 and for anyone with an interest in architecture, this is a must-see.

 

Misses (for me!):

 

The 2+ hour Under-the-Bridges Tour

•  Too long (and repetitive). I would gladly sign up for any of the shorter tours e.g. the Royal Canal Tour which takes 50 minutes.

 

Vasa Museum

 

 

• I know, I know. Everyone raves about this but it just reminds me of Disneyland. Vasa is overrun by busloads of tourists, all armed with selfie-sticks.

 

Prins Eugen Waldemarsudde

Took me forever to find this place and totally underwhelming. Perhaps if I had a guided tour I would think otherwise.

 

 

Fotografiska

 

 

• People love this place, it fell short for me – which may have been because it was such a hassle to get there through Stockholm’s big dig.
• If you’re a major photography buff, it is probably a must-see but for me it was too much of a bother.

 

Artipelag:

 

 

This is a day trip by boat (leaves at 11am and returns to Stockholm by 5pm). It’s a gorgeous location (only go on a beautiful sunny day!) but the galleries themselves are not inspiring. I did like the Detour sculpture show with work placed in nature. But, if I were short on time, I would give this a pass.

 

Bakfickan at the Opera House

A classic that has turned into a total tourist trap. Bad food and lackluster service, at least during the summer tourist season.

 

FINALLY….

Where to stay and how to get around:

Hobo Hotel (despite its misguided name) is a fabulous place to stay if you’re into places with a young, cool, high energy vibe. I loved it.

 

Here’s why I recommend it:

• Great location
• Functional rooms
• Fabulous lobby
• Fun, interesting guests
• Friendly, helpful staff (3 of my faves in pic upper right)
• Inexpensive (my room was approx.. $160 per night)

CAVEAT: Do Not Stay Here if you are looking for luxury accommodations, fine dining etc.

 

Stockholm City Card

•  I got a 5-day card. It gets you into all the museums and also on the boat trips. I didn’t work out the financial benefits vs. buying individual entry fees but just in terms of convenience, it’s worth it.

 

Travel Card

• This is absolutely essential. I bought a 72-hour one and then had it replenished for 2 extra days. You buy them at Pressbyrån convenience stores that are on every corner including at the entrance to most subways. Based on how much walking or biking you’re going to do, you may want more or less time on the travel card.

 

Bottom Line.

I would go back to Stockholm in a heartbeat. Copenhagen is equally fabulous but my hotel in Stockholm just put it over the top. I felt so comfortable in the city because I operated out of a home base that was so absolutely perfect for me.